When first looking at a map of Armenia, one sees the face of a girl looking west. This small rocky parcel of 29, 800 square kilometers is only ten percent of its historical being. Yet Armenia is one of those ancient places, which, even in its historical complexity, has retained its multidimensional nature, blending events, faith, culture, religion and architecture, while still remaining on the map.

Just to see the shining face of sacred Mount Ararat every day, to envision Noah landing in Armenia, to see those warm Armenian faces, to visit Etchmiadzin, the first public house of worship in all history, was a thrill.

This trip, my first to Armenia, was an eye opener. Unlike the trip to China, or those to Europe, this vision was planted in every inch of my being. To be immersed in and truly experience what this journey offered was a spiritual reflection without comparison. Architectural designs of structural and aesthetic magnificence offer a tribute to faith, and truth of presence.

However, our trip's purpose was most graced by the generous and humanitarian deed of Doctor John Ounjian of NY.

Gyumri, formerly Leninakan, was a city ravaged by the earthquake in 1988. But on October 5, 2000, for 600 first- through twelfth-graders, it represented moving from corrugated shanty buildings to a brand-new Western-style school. The school's outside walls are of reddish tufa. Doctor Ounjian spared no expense in this 3-story- high edifice, complemented by arched windows, a spacious gym, a computer lab, military training room and a library donated by Mrs. Shake Lucas, also from the US.

To experience the opening of a school in Armenia was like no other. The foresight of this gesture had already electrified us with anticipation. When we arrived at the school, a substantial crowd was waiting for this day. As we rode along the streets and passed the main fountain plaza, the giant bus caught the local crowd's attention and policemen cordoned the street. Teachers and students crowded outside the school and cheered as we descended from the bus. It simply felt like a night at the Academy Awards.

President Kocharian, the American Ambassador Michael Lemmon and local dignitaries arrived shortly thereafter for the ribbon-cutting ceremony. The local band played. After the official inspection of the classrooms, we were directed to the auditorium where Pres. Kocharian presented Dr. Ounjian with a medal, as a token of appreciation.

Visibly overwhelmed by this glorious occasion, Dr. Ounjian was escorted down the stage stairs like a star by Ambassador Lemmon on the right and President Kocharian on the left.

The children showed off their multiple talents in a display of numerous skits, songs and music. During one of the theatrical pieces, the students began to chant, "Ounjian! O u n j i a n! O u n j i a n!" as the good doctor was escorted back onto stage to lift a fallen column symbolizing his role as their liberator and as their means for hope.

The festivities continued at the lovely Ani Restaurant. The foods and drinks were plentiful. We were treated to nostalgic and heroes' songs and the dancing was nonstop. The people of Gyumri were fun and enjoyable.

Under a sunny and dry climate, our 12-day pilgrimage consisted of:

The double-altar mother church Etchmiadzin where Christ directed Gregory the Enlightener where to build the first house of public worship.
The victory gardens of Mayr Hayastan and their colossal guardian statue.
The moving Genocide Monument and Museum.
The pre-Christian (Greek-type) temple of Garni.
Geghard monastery dug out of a mountain.
The well-organized Zeytoon Children's Safety Center.
Ancient bibles, rare artifacts and illuminated manuscripts at Madenataran.
The art market of Vernissage.
Worldly classical architecture in the churches of Hripsime and Gayane.
The park and shrine at Sardarabad where Armenians stopped the invaders.
The pearl Lake Sevan and its savory princely fish (ishkhan).
The Haghardzin churches in Swiss-like Dilijan.
The dungeon at Khor Virap where St. Gregory was detained for 12 years.
The eclectic 13th-century architecture of Noravank church.
Wine tasting at Areni, a few unusual cafes, hotels, and restaurants.

Armenia is the bridge Europe used to get to the Holy Land and on cross roads to the silks and spices of China and India. Armenia is a must for tourists who look for untouched forgotten places, impressive original Christian architecture; for those who enjoy this unique 3,000-year-old eclectic culture; its art, language, music, dances; its causes and traditions.

In this land of Noah, the magic of Ararat, the spirituality of millennium-old monasteries, grilled foods and drinks without additives, truly the best apricots and grapes; the incomparable hospitality of people and their resiliency in managing their rocky environment are indeed an admirable feat.

Presently, Armenia's glass seems one-third full, but it is certainly not two-thirds empty. Like most visitors, we certainly did see, read, and hear about despair and pessimism both before and during our stay. We met students, doctors, professionals, artists, entertainers, government ministers, European Union aides and others. A simple example of a typical response to "How are you in Armenian?" is "Votchinch," roughly translated as "nothing" or "no change." This obviously needs a more positive mindset improvement for such a very literate population.

Armenia is looking for new industries, new markets, new resources, and new infrastructure. To embark on the 21st century, it needs to have "win-win" vision, embrace all of its human resources, build real confidence, attract world-class sustainable developments, encourage quality training for value work and, most importantly, learn very fast what works best for the long run.

Armenia was the first nation to accept Christianity in 301 AD. The purpose of its 1700-year anniversary celebration should be acknowledged and shared in fellowship by the entire Christian world.

As did Dr. Ounjian, and as a reflection of our humanity, many of us wish to be part of real solutions. Though each of us may not be able to build a school, we all have a grip on Armenia's destiny in one way or another. Each in our own way, we need to encourage Armenia toward that road of optimism, as they, in turn, rebuild their economy, nurture that rich culture, and further develop democratic and Christian values. ...

Jamaica Estates, NY